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backup. baguettes. crystal. There are many other excellent shops A large, partially underground car park
on Tr~iat%1Å‚ worth getting lost in. is next to Hotel Thermal sanatorium on IP
TOP END Drinking Karlovy Vary porcelain is also famous, and Pavlova (50/100K%0Å„ for two/24 hours).
Hotel Embassy (%353 221 161; www.embassy.cz; Nová Parlament (%353 586 155; Zeyerova 5; hclosed Sun) not just those funny spa cups. The top local
Louka 21; s/d incl breakfast 2190/2980K%0Å„; pi) This With outdoor tables on the bustling TG name is Pirkenhammer. LOKET NAD OHX
riverside place is very proud that both Michael Masaryka pedestrian mall, this is a favoured pop 3200
Douglas and Sir Ben Kingsley have dropped in drinking place for locals. And the food s pretty Getting There & Away Surrounded by a wickedly serpentine loop
at the Embassy Pub downstairs. Upstairs the good too. AIR in the river OhYe, the almost unbearably
rooms are cosy and comfortable, matching Retro Club (TG Masaryka 18; h10am-midnight, to SA (%239 007 007; www.csa.cz; Mírové nám%1Å‚stí 2) flies picturesque village of Loket may as well be
the charming exterior. 3am Fri & Sat) Here s the most accurate name in to Moscow four times a week (12,600K%0Å„) on an island. According to the local tourist
Carlsbad Plaza (%353 225 501; www.carlsbadplaza.cz; all the Czech Republic, with regular nights from Karlovy Vary International Airport (KLV; office it was JW Goethe s favourite town
MariánskolázeHská 23; s/d ¬ 120/170; pnais) celebrating the unique musical decade that and, after a lazily subdued stroll around the
%353 360 611; www.airport-k-vary.cz), 7km from
Seriously stylish, this new hotel has raised the was the 1980s. the town. gorgeous main square and castle, it may be
bar in spa town with soothingly modern treat- Rotes Berlin (%353 233 792; www.rotesberlin.com; Bus 8 runs to and from the airport from yours as well.
ment facilities, classy rooms and a smoothly Jaltská 7; hto 3am) Outside this club is promised Tr~nice bus station. The cost is 10K%0Å„ with an Loket s German name is Elbogen (German
Zen Asian restaurant. Who s top dog now, music and propaganda . Inside you ll hear additional charge of 10K%0Å„ for luggage. for elbow , after the extreme bend in the river)
Grandhotel Pupp? everything from hip-hop and world music to and it s been famous by that name since 1815
nicely thrashy indie rock. BUS & TRAIN for the manufacture of porcelain, as have
Eating Regular SAD (%353 913 550; Terminal Dolni Nádra~í) the neighbouring towns of Horní Slavkov
Food prices, especially around the colon- Entertainment buses run to Prague (150K%0Å„, two hours) and (Schlackenwald) and Chodov (Chodan).
nades, will seem high unless you ve arrived Town theatre (M%1Å‚stské divadlo v Karlových Varech; %353 are faster than trains (%353 913 559), which take Shops in town have a fine selection of the
from Prague. And check your bill: mistakes 224 302; www.divadlokarlovy.cz; Divadelní nám%1Å‚stí 2) four hours (275K%0Å„). local craftsmanship.
happen. Drama, comedy and musicals are all fea- Asiana (%353 360 411; Varaavká 11/1141; h9am-5pm
You can buy oplatky (see p210 ) at the tured. Tickets (100K%0Å„ to 500K%0Å„) are available Mon-Fri) runs buses to Prague Florenc (140K%0Å„) Orientation & Information
M%1Å‚stská tr~nice supermarket by the bus stop from the theatre or Infocentrum (p212). and Prague s Ruzyn%1Å‚ Airport (190K%0Å„) every The bus from Karlovy Vary provides a cine-
on Varaavská, or at many locations across Karlovy Vary Symphony Orchestra (%353 228 hour. There is another office at Terminal Dolni matic look at the town, almost completely
town. 707; www.kso.cz; IP Pavlova 14) The town s orchestra Nádra~í (%353 633 283; h7am-6pm). circling it on approach.
W E S T B O H E M I A
WEST BOHEMIA
218 WEST BOHEMIA " " Loket nad OhY%1Å‚ Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com WEST BOHEMIA " " PlzeH 219
The local tourist information office, Info- The red-and-white 18th-century church of St You can hike from Karlovy Vary on a very Czech for the original source ; Pilsner Urquell
centrum (%352 684 123; www.loket.cz; TG Masaryka 12; Wenceslas (kostel sv Václava) is on your way fine 17km trail (marked blue) beside the OhYe in German), is now one of the world s best
h10am-12.30pm & 1-5pm), is by the bridge. Inter- to the castle. (p214). and most imitated beers.
net access is 10K%0Å„ per 15 minutes. At the same time, PlzeH began to indus-
eská SpoYitelna (TG Masaryka 101) has an ex- RAFTING PLZEG trialise. The `koda Engineering Works was
change counter and an ATM. Rafting OhYe (%606 902 310; www.putzer.cz) offers pop 163,000 founded in 1869 and prospered as a manu-
At the end of July, the Loket Summer Cultural canoeing and rafting trips on the OhYe river, After the quaintly contrived elegance of the facturer of armaments. Since WWII it has
Festival (www.loketfestival.info) features opera per- beginning in Loket. Especially beautiful is West Bohemian spa towns, the rugged blue- been known mainly for the ubiquitous `koda
formances in the open-air theatre below the the stretch between Sokolov and KadaH. Trip collar energy of PlzeH comes as a welcome car, as well as locomotives and industrial ma-
castle walls (contact Infocentrum for details). duration varies from two hours to eight hours. relief. The capital of West Bohemia has au- chinery. In the midst of post-1989 euphoria,
Prices for canoes (two people) range from thentic industrial credibility as the home of Volkswagen offered `koda a staggering US$1
Sights & Activities 500K%0Å„ to 750K%0Å„ and rafts (four to six people) the Skoda Engineering Works and as the billion development loan, and the German
CASTLE from 1200K%0Å„ to 2400K%0Å„. Bookings can be original source of Pilsner beer. Workers the car manufacturer now has a majority share
The beautiful castle (hrad Loket; %352 684 104; made through Infocentrum. world over are especially pleased with that in the company.
adult/concession with English guide 90/60K%0Å„, with English last fact.
text 80/45Kć; h9am-4.30pm May-Oct, to 3.30pm Nov-Apr) Sleeping As the country s fourth-largest city, PlzeH s Orientation
was built on the site of an earlier Romanesque Lazy River Hostel (%352 685 204; www.lazyriverhostel gritty suburbs sprawl across the surrounding PlzeH sits near the confluence of four sizable
fort, of which the only surviving bits are the .com; Kostelni 72; per person 250K%0Å„) Tucked in under hills, but at its heart lies a spectacular old rivers, two of which, the M~e and the Rad-
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